Quick answer: Cannabis defoliation works best in 3 timed stages. Stage 1 starts in veg from week 5 onward (skip for autoflowers). Stage 2 happens 3 to 4 weeks into flowering, right after the stretch phase ends - remove everything below a line 12 to 18 inches from the canopy top, plus any dwarfed branches. Stage 3 is one final cleanup 1 week before harvest using scissors only. Never defoliate during the stretch (the first 20 to 25 days of flower), and never strip an autoflower the way you would a photoperiod.
Cannabis defoliation gets argued about more than almost any other grow technique because the timing matters more than the cuts themselves. Defoliate at the wrong moment and you stunt your plant. Defoliate at the right moment and you redirect energy to the bud sites that actually catch light, improve airflow into a dense canopy, and cut your post-harvest trim time in half. This guide covers the 3-stage timing, exactly when not to defoliate, how many leaves to remove per session, the heavy-defol vs light-defol debate, the most common mistakes, the science behind why it works, and a full FAQ for the edge cases.
The reason cannabis defoliation and pruning increases yields comes down to simple energy economics. Every leaf and branch sitting in shade or blocking airflow consumes more energy from your plant than it produces. Think of a solar panel installed under a roof instead of on top: it draws from the system while generating nothing. Old, low, and shaded leaves do exactly the same thing. Remove them, and your plant redirects that energy to the bud sites that are actively catching light.
The other half of the equation is airflow. Cannabis leaves release oxygen-rich, water-saturated air through transpiration. If that air cannot circulate out of the canopy, fresh CO2-rich air cannot circulate in. Reduced CO2 access slows growth, raises humidity, and creates the exact conditions mold and pests thrive in. Defoliation solves all three problems at once. For the underlying physiology, our guide on cannabis canopy development covers the source-sink dynamics in more detail.
When to Defoliate Cannabis: The 3-Stage Timing
The BudTrainer Method has 3 stages of defoliation. The first happens during late vegetative growth, the second 3 to 4 weeks after flowering begins, and the last just before harvest. The diagram below shows where each stage sits in the full grow cycle and which weeks to leave the plant alone.
A quick read of the timeline: Stage 1 is your veg cleanup. Stage 2 is your one big structural cut of the entire grow. Stage 3 is a finishing pass for light penetration and trim-time savings. Between Stage 2 and Stage 3, the plant is in pure bud development - leave it alone. The full reasoning for each stage is below.
You already learned some pruning basics in our guide on cannabis training techniques, but here we go into much more detail. If you are growing autoflowers, the timing changes significantly - skip ahead to Stage 2 and read the autoflower notes inside each stage carefully.
When NOT to Defoliate Cannabis
Timing matters as much as technique. There are three windows where defoliation costs you more than it gains.
- During the stretch phase (the first 20 to 25 days of flowering): Your plant is roughly doubling in height and needs all the leaf surface area it has to fuel that growth. Defoliating during the stretch stresses the plant at exactly the wrong moment and reduces the final size of your bud sites.
- Very early vegetative stage (before week 5 from germination): Young plants need every leaf they have to build root mass and establish structure. Stage 1 defoliation should not begin until week 5 at the earliest. Autoflowers should skip Stage 1 entirely because they only get 4 to 5 weeks of vegetative time.
- Late flower, weeks 4 to 6 of the flowering stage: Between Stage 2 and Stage 3 your plant is in pure bud development mode. Cutting leaves in this window competes with bud production for resources. Hold off until the Stage 3 pre-harvest window.
The same caution applies after any major stress event. If you just topped your plant or moved it to a larger pot, give it 1 to 2 weeks to recover before adding defoliation on top. How aggressively you defoliate also depends on your strain - indica-dominant plants have broader, denser leaves that block more light and airflow than sativas, so they typically need more frequent sessions. If you are still choosing your strain, our growing basics guide covers how to match a strain to your environment and skill level.
How Many Leaves to Remove Per Session
This is the most common question new growers ask, and the answer depends on the plant type and the stage. The rule of thumb: photoperiods can tolerate one heavy session per stage, autoflowers cannot. Use this quick reference.
| Plant type | Per session limit | How to pace it |
|---|---|---|
| Photoperiod, Stage 1 or 2 | No strict leaf count - follow the canopy line rule | Remove everything below 12 to 18 inches from the top in a single session |
| Photoperiod, Stage 3 | All fan leaves without trichomes | Single session, scissors only, 1 week before harvest |
| Autoflower, Stage 2 | 3 to 5 leaves or branches per day | Spread the equivalent of one heavy session over 2 to 3 weeks |
| Autoflower, Stage 3 | Same as photoperiod | Single session, 1 week before harvest |
The reason for the autoflower caution is simple: autoflowers run on a fixed clock that has nothing to do with light cycles. They cannot extend their veg stage to recover from heavy defoliation the way a photoperiod can. Slow the cuts down and they handle it fine. Pile them on in one session and you stunt the plant for the rest of its life.
For where to cut on the leaf itself: pinch or snip right at the base of the petiole (the stem connecting the leaf to the branch). Do not leave a stub - it dies back and invites mold. Cut clean and flush.
How to Defoliate Cannabis
With Scissors (branches and leaves)
Scissors are essential for branches, which cannot be removed by hand because of their fibrous stems. You can also use scissors for leaves to get cleaner cuts and keep your hands clean throughout the session.
- Pinch the leaf or branch with your non-dominant hand.
- Place the open scissor blades on the stem and close them just enough to touch the skin without cutting into it.
- Run the blades all the way down the stem until they stop at the branch junction and cannot go further.
- Close the blades and cut the leaf or branch you want to remove.
- Pull the removed piece away with your non-dominant hand.
By Hand (leaves only)
This method is fast and requires no tools, but it only works on leaves, not branches. Do not use this technique during Stage 3 - leaves near ripe buds tend to pull skin strings from the main stalk as they come off, and that damages lower flowers.
- Pinch the leaf at the base of the stem.
- Bend the leaf down by 90 degrees until it cracks. If it does not crack, twist it gently back and forth to break the connection.
- Pull the leaf away from the plant until it comes off clean.
Now that you have the techniques, here is how to apply them across the 3 stages.
Stage 1 - Defoliating and Pruning During Veg
Stage 1 starts at week 5 from germination at the earliest, and continues every 2 weeks until the flip to flower. The goal is to clear old leaves so newer ones catch more light, prune any branches that are losing the race to the canopy top, and remove damaged or yellowing growth that no longer pulls its weight.
Start at the bottom of the plant and work your way up. Remove fan leaves that are yellowing, browning at the tips, or completely shaded by leaves above them. Remove any branches that are clearly dwarfed - more than 6 inches below the canopy top and visibly thinner than their neighbors at the same node. If you just topped your plant for the second time, give it 7 to 10 days of recovery before doing a Stage 1 session.
When you top for the second time, only top the 4 upper branches, not the 4 lower ones. The lower branches already work harder to reach the canopy top, so topping just the upper nodes lets the lower ones catch up and even out the canopy. Once the new growth softens up, gentle training clips like the BudClips can hold those branches outward before they harden, which keeps your canopy wide and flat rather than reverting upward.
Always Prune Dwarfed Branches
After the initial defoliation pass, inspect every node and prune any growth site that has become dwarfed compared to its opposite counterpart at the same node. By removing the smaller of the pair, you help your plant focus its energy on the larger site rather than wasting it on a branch that will never reach the top. If a branch snaps during this process, wrap it immediately with flexible repair tape to reconnect both sides of the break. Cannabis heals quickly and most snapped branches can be saved within a week.
Stage 1 Outdoor: Every 2 Weeks Through Veg
If you are growing outdoors, run Stage 1 every 2 weeks through the full vegetative stage. This keeps old leaves cleared so newer ones capture more light, and it stays ahead of the outdoor pest pressure that destroys neglected canopies. Spider mites, aphids, and thrips all favor dense, clustered foliage pockets where humidity and stale air collect, so regular defoliation is one of your most effective defenses. For the rest of the outdoor playbook, our guide on growing massive outdoor plants covers training, watering, and pest management in detail.
Stage 1 Autoflowers: Skip This Stage
Autoflowers do not need defoliation or pruning during the vegetative stage. They only get about 4 to 5 weeks of vegetative time before they flip on their own clock, which is not enough to recover from leaf loss. Start directly at Stage 2 once the plant has been in flowering for 3 to 4 weeks.
Stage 2 - Defoliating and Pruning During Flower
Stage 2 is the most important stage of the entire defoliation process. This is where you select the final branches your plant will commit to and remove everything that does not have strong potential. Get it right and your top bud sites get all the light and energy. Get it wrong and you lose yield to popcorn larf on the lower canopy.
Most strains run through a vigorous stretch between the time you flip them to flower and around week 3 of flowering. Do not defoliate during these 20 to 25 days. The stretch phase is when the plant doubles in height and sets the final position of every bud site. Cutting leaves during this window is the single most common mistake we see, and it costs more yield than any other defoliation error.
Once the stretch is clearly over - the plant has stopped growing vertically and bud crowns have visibly set, typically weeks 3 to 4 of the flowering stage - it is time for Stage 2. Photoperiods get one heavy session. Autoflowers spread the same cuts over 2 to 3 weeks.
Step 1. Defoliate Shaded Leaves Below the Canopy Line
Pick a line 12 to 18 inches from the top of your canopy and remove all leaves and branches that begin below that line. Everything below that line is no longer catching meaningful light and is blocking airflow from the bottom of the plant up through the canopy. Removing it redirects energy and light to the bud sites above.
Step 2. Prune Low and Dwarfed Branches
During the stretch phase, your plant selects which branches to prioritize and which to abandon. The branches it deprioritizes become dwarfed - visibly thinner than their neighbors and with tops sitting more than 6 inches below the canopy ceiling. These will never produce quality buds. Remove every one of them. Doing this sends even more energy to your strong tops while opening up airflow throughout the lower canopy.
Step 3. Prune Shaded Growth Sites
Same logic as dwarfed branches, applied to smaller growth sites. Remove any tiny clusters of pistils sitting more than 12 to 18 inches below the top of the canopy. These will never receive enough light to produce anything but larfy popcorn bud - small, fluffy, and undesirable. When you remove the larf, your plant redirects that energy to the top bud sites, which grow denser and heavier as a result.
Stage 2 Outdoors: Wait for Visual Cues, Not Calendar Days
Outdoor plants do not have a clean light flip date, so you cannot calendar-count days into flower. Wait for two visual cues: the plant has visibly stopped stretching upward, and bud crowns are clearly set across the upper canopy. Once you see both, run Stage 2 exactly as you would indoors.
Stage 2 Autoflowers: 3 to 5 Per Day Over 2 to 3 Weeks
Do not run Stage 2 in a single session on an autoflower. Instead, remove 3 to 5 leaves or branches per day over a 2 to 3 week period. Removing more than that in one session can send an autoflower into shock and stunt the plant for the rest of its life. The 3 to 5 per day rate roughly mimics what a plant experiences outdoors when wind or animals break off a leaf or two daily - small losses the plant absorbs without stress.
Stage 3 - Pre-Harvest Defoliation (1 Week Before Harvest)
One week before you plan to harvest your plant - when most pistils have turned brown and trichomes are going milky and amber - do one final defoliation pass. No pruning at this stage. There are three reasons this step matters:
- It uncovers lower buds and sugar leaves that have been shaded by large fan leaves for the past 4 to 6 weeks, giving them a final week of real light exposure.
- It creates mild stress that signals the plant to allocate all remaining resources to the buds, which drives a final push of trichome and cannabinoid production.
- It saves over 50% of your post-harvest trim time because most fan leaves are already gone before you chop the plant.
Sugar Leaves vs Fan Leaves: Know What to Keep
Fan leaves are the large, multi-fingered leaves that grow directly from the branches. Their job is to collect light and CO2, store nutrients, and transpire. They carry almost no trichomes and have no use after harvest.
Sugar leaves are the small leaves growing directly out of the buds, coated in trichomes - hence the name. Their main function is to store nutrients for the flowers and produce trichomes. Sugar leaves contain significant amounts of THC and CBD and should always be set aside for processing such as hash or edibles rather than discarded.
How to Remove Fan Leaves at Stage 3
Start with the largest fan leaves at the lower part of the canopy and work your way up. If a fan leaf has no trichomes on the leaf or its stem, discard it. If it is coated in trichomes, set it aside for hash or extraction.
Scissors only at Stage 3. The hand-pulling method works fine through veg and Stage 2, but at this stage leaves pull skin strings from the main stalk as they come off. Those strings tear into the lower buds. Use scissors for every cut.
One week from now your plant is ready to come down. The lower buds will have caught a final week of light and reached full maturity, and you will have far less trimming ahead of you. The drying stage is where most growers quietly destroy weeks of work, so read our guide on how to dry cannabis correctly before you chop, and our curing guide for what happens after.
Heavy Defoliation vs Light Defoliation: The Schwazze Question
Sooner or later every grower comes across the "schwazze" method popularized by Joshua Haupt in Three a Light - the technique of stripping nearly every fan leaf at two points during flowering. Forum posts hype the method with yield claims that sound too good to be true. Most of them are.
The first-principles take: aggressive defoliation only works when the rest of the grow environment is dialed in - high light intensity, optimal VPD, full nutrient saturation, and a strain that handles stress well. In a controlled commercial room running 1,000+ µmol/m²/s with CO2 enrichment, removing more leaves can redirect more energy to bud production because the plant has the resources to compensate. In a home grow running 600 to 800 µmol/m²/s without CO2, the same cuts strip productive capacity the plant cannot replace.
The peer-reviewed research is thin. We could not find a published controlled study showing schwazze defoliation outperforming targeted defoliation in cannabis specifically. Closely-related horticulture work on tomato and pepper defoliation consistently shows that targeted removal of shaded and senescent leaves outperforms aggressive whole-canopy stripping3. Until there is cannabis-specific evidence to the contrary, we recommend against the schwazze method for home growers.
The BudTrainer position: targeted defoliation beats aggressive defoliation in nearly every home grow environment. Remove what is shaded, dwarfed, or yellowing. Leave what is productive. The 3-stage method above is built around that principle.
Common Defoliation Mistakes
Four mistakes account for the majority of yield damage we see from defoliation in home grows. None of them are obvious if you have never been told.
- Defoliating during the stretch: Removing leaves in the first 20 to 25 days of flower stunts the plant exactly when it needs maximum leaf area to set bud site count. Wait until day 21+ of flower.
- Removing too many leaves at once: Stripping the canopy bare in one session removes productive leaf area the plant cannot replace fast enough. Follow the 12 to 18 inch canopy line rule rather than aiming for a target leaf count.
- Hand-pulling during Stage 3: The hand technique that works fine in veg and Stage 2 tears skin strings from the stalk when leaves are close to ripe buds. Switch to scissors exclusively from Stage 3 onward.
- Defoliating autoflowers the same way you defoliate photoperiods: Autoflowers cannot extend their veg stage to recover from stress. Spread Stage 2 cuts over 2 to 3 weeks at 3 to 5 per day, never in a single session.
Indoor vs Outdoor Defoliation: Key Differences
Light Exposure
The sun is approximately 93 million miles away, which means a few feet of height difference on your plant makes almost no practical difference in light intensity - as long as leaves are not shaded by other leaves above them. Indoor grow lights are a completely different story. Intensity drops 5 to 10 times weaker for every foot of distance from the source. A branch sitting 2 feet below the canopy top under an indoor light receives dramatically less usable light than one at the top, which makes canopy management and defoliation far more critical indoors than outdoors.
Airflow and Pest Pressure
Airflow is essential for CO2 absorption regardless of grow environment. Cannabis leaves release oxygen-rich, water-saturated air through transpiration, and that air must circulate out so fresh CO2-rich air can move in. Dense, undefoliated canopies trap stale air and raise humidity - precisely the conditions mold and pests favor.
This applies equally to indoor and outdoor grows, but outdoor plants face far greater pest pressure from spider mites, thrips, aphids, and other insects. Defoliating outdoor plants at least once a month - clearing yellowing leaves and breaking up clustered foliage pockets - is one of the most effective pest prevention strategies available. Indoors, the bigger battle is humidity control and mold prevention.
Defoliation is commonly combined with low stress training (LST) and other canopy training methods to maximize light exposure and airflow simultaneously. If you want to take canopy control further, mainline pruning is a technique built almost entirely around aggressive structural pruning and symmetrical branch management.
The Science of Why Defoliation Works
The honest framing first: cannabis-specific defoliation research is thin. Most of what we know about leaf removal and yield comes from decades of horticulture work on tomato, pepper, cucumber, and other high-value canopy crops. The plant physiology is similar enough to translate, but you should know the citations below mostly reference related crops rather than cannabis directly. The strongest cannabis-specific evidence is a 2019 meta-analysis showing that environmental and structural management (light, training, canopy density) accounts for the largest controllable share of yield variation in cannabis4.
Source-Sink Dynamics and Photosynthate Allocation
Plants distribute photosynthetic products (sugars produced in leaves) from source tissues (mature leaves) to sink tissues (growing points, fruits, or flowers) based on demand signals1. In the cannabis flowering stage, buds are the dominant sink. Lower fan leaves that are shaded produce less sugar than they consume, which makes them net drains on the system. Removing them redirects the source capacity of the remaining productive leaves to the bud sinks above.
Light Saturation and Canopy Penetration
Cannabis leaves reach photosynthetic saturation at light intensities around 1,500 µmol/m²/s in optimal CO2 conditions2. Below the canopy in a dense plant, light intensity often drops to less than 100 µmol/m²/s - well below the compensation point where leaves produce more than they consume. Subcanopy lighting research in cannabis specifically shows measurable yield improvements when lower bud sites receive supplemental light2. Defoliation achieves a similar effect by removing the leaves that block that light in the first place.
Vapor Pressure Deficit and Disease Pressure
Dense canopies create microclimates with elevated humidity due to transpiration. When relative humidity inside the canopy climbs above 70%, conditions favor powdery mildew, botrytis, and other foliar pathogens3. Defoliation increases airflow and lowers in-canopy humidity, which is one of the most reliable mold prevention strategies in indoor cannabis production.
What the Research Does Not Yet Settle
The schwazze question is still unresolved in peer-reviewed cannabis literature. There are no controlled cannabis trials showing aggressive defoliation outperforms targeted defoliation at home-grow light intensities. There is also limited cannabis-specific data on optimal stage 3 timing - the 1-week-before-harvest window is grower consensus, not peer-reviewed protocol. If you see strong yield claims tied to defoliation methods, ask for the data.
For more on the underlying plant biology, see our deep dives on canopy development science and cannabis root development.
Frequently Asked Questions
Does defoliation actually increase cannabis yields?
Yes, when done at the right stages. Removing shaded and unproductive leaves redirects energy to the bud sites that actively receive light, while also improving airflow and lowering the in-canopy humidity that invites mold and pests. Commercial cannabis producers defoliate as standard practice because the yield improvement is consistent. The exception is aggressive whole-canopy stripping (the schwazze method) at home-grow light intensities, where the peer-reviewed evidence does not support the yield claims.
When should you NOT defoliate cannabis?
Avoid defoliating during the first 4 to 5 weeks from germination, during the stretch phase of flowering (typically day 1 to day 20-25 of flower), and during weeks 4 to 6 of flower when the plant is in pure bud development between Stage 2 and Stage 3. Also hold off for 1 to 2 weeks after topping or transplanting to let the plant recover from that stress first.
How many fan leaves should I remove at one time?
For photoperiods in Stage 1 or 2, there is no strict leaf count - follow the canopy line rule and remove everything below 12 to 18 inches from the top. For autoflowers, cap removal at 3 to 5 leaves or branches per day to prevent stress-induced stunting. For Stage 3 (pre-harvest), remove all fan leaves without trichomes in a single session.
Can you over-defoliate cannabis?
Yes. Removing too many productive leaves at once - especially during flowering - stresses the plant and slows or stalls growth. The risk is highest for autoflowers because they cannot extend their veg stage to recover. Stick to removing only leaves that are shaded, yellowing, or actively blocking airflow rather than stripping the plant aggressively.
Is heavy defoliation (schwazzing) better than light defoliation?
Not in most home grow environments. Aggressive defoliation methods like Joshua Haupt's schwazze technique only show benefits when light intensity, CO2, nutrients, and strain selection are all dialed in to commercial-grade levels. In a typical home grow running 600 to 800 µmol/m² per second without CO2 enrichment, removing too many productive leaves strips capacity the plant cannot replace. Targeted defoliation wins for home growers.
What is the difference between defoliation, pruning, and lollipopping?
Defoliation specifically refers to removing leaves. Pruning is broader and includes removing branches as well. Lollipopping is a specific style of pruning where all growth is stripped from the bottom third or half of the plant so the main stalk looks bare below the canopy, like a lollipop stick. Stage 2 of the BudTrainer Method produces a result similar to lollipopping but with more precision about which sites have real bud potential.
Can I defoliate cannabis in week 1, 2, or 3 of flower?
No. Weeks 1 through 3 of flower are the stretch phase, where the plant doubles in height and sets the final position of every bud site. Defoliating during this window costs more yield than any other defoliation timing error. Wait until day 21+ of flower (the start of week 4) before running Stage 2.
Should I defoliate autoflowers differently?
Yes, with significantly more caution. Skip Stage 1 entirely because autoflowers only have 4 to 5 weeks of vegetative time. For Stage 2, remove no more than 3 to 5 leaves or branches per day over a 2 to 3 week period rather than doing one heavy session. Stage 3 pre-harvest defoliation is performed identically to photoperiod plants.
Where exactly should I cut a fan leaf?
Cut right at the base of the petiole (the stem connecting the leaf to the branch). Run your scissor blades down the petiole until they stop at the branch junction, then cut clean. Do not leave a stub. Leaf stubs die back and can invite mold or pests at the cut site.
How long does cannabis take to recover after defoliation?
Vegetative plants usually show visible recovery within 1 to 2 days. Younger leaves often double in size within 48 hours of older leaves being removed because they are no longer competing for light. During flowering, recovery is less visually dramatic since the plant's energy is on bud production, but energy redistribution to the remaining bud sites happens within a few days of Stage 2 defoliation.
Should I defoliate outdoor cannabis differently from indoor?
The technique is the same but the frequency differs. Outdoor plants benefit from a Stage 1 defoliation pass every 2 weeks throughout veg because they face higher pest pressure and the canopy grows more vigorously. Indoor plants typically only need 1 to 2 Stage 1 sessions before flipping to flower. Stage 2 and Stage 3 timing is identical, but outdoors you wait for visual cues (stretch ended, buds set) rather than calendar-counting days into flower.
What is "big leafing" and is it the same as defoliation?
"Big leafing" is grower slang for selectively removing only the largest fan leaves while leaving smaller and medium leaves intact. It is a lighter form of defoliation, useful when the canopy needs airflow improvement but is not dense enough to justify a full Stage 1 or Stage 2 pass. Best used between major defoliation sessions or on plants that have already been training-managed.
Do indica plants need more defoliation than sativas?
Yes. Indica-dominant plants have broader, denser fan leaves that block significantly more light and airflow than the narrower, finer leaves of sativa-dominant plants. Indicas typically need more frequent and thorough defoliation sessions to keep the canopy productive, especially during Stage 1 and Stage 2.
What if I accidentally snap a branch during defoliation?
Wrap the break immediately with flexible plant repair tape, pressing both sides of the snap firmly back together. Cannabis heals quickly and most snapped branches recover within a week if the tape goes on within minutes of the break. Do not remove the tape until you can see visible callus tissue forming at the join.
Next Steps
Once Stage 3 is done and you have given your plant a week of light and resource redirection, the next step is harvesting your plant. After that comes the most underrated step of the entire grow: drying your buds correctly, which is where most home growers quietly destroy weeks of work without realizing it. Then cure your buds in jars to bring out the full terpene profile.
If you want to take canopy control further before the next grow, our guides on low stress training and mainlining cannabis pair directly with the 3-stage defoliation method above. The BudClips handle branch positioning during recovery windows, and the BudTape fixes any branches you accidentally snap during a defoliation session.
References
- Marcelis, L. F. M., & Heuvelink, E. (2019). Achieving Sustainable Greenhouse Cultivation. Burleigh Dodds Science Publishing. https://www.taylorfrancis.com/books/edit/10.1201/9780429266744
- Hawley, D., Graham, T., Stasiak, M., & Dixon, M. (2018). Improving cannabis bud quality and yield with subcanopy lighting. HortScience, 53(11), 1593-1599. https://journals.ashs.org/hortsci/view/journals/hortsci/53/11/article-p1593.xml
- Punja, Z. K. (2021). Emerging diseases of Cannabis sativa and sustainable management. Pest Management Science, 77(9), 3857-3870. https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/ps.6307?cookieSet=1
- Backer, R., Schwinghamer, T., Rosenbaum, P., et al. (2019). Closing the yield gap for cannabis: A meta-analysis of factors determining cannabis yield. Frontiers in Plant Science, 10, 495. https://www.frontiersin.org/journals/plant-science/articles/10.3389/fpls.2019.00495/full
About the Author
Henrique Dias is the CEO and co-founder of BudTrainer. He is a mechanical engineer who also holds a graduate certificate in Commercial Cannabis Production from Niagara College in Ontario, Canada - the first college-level cannabis cultivation program in North America. Before founding BudTrainer, Henrique worked with Health Canada licensed cannabis producers, where he gained hands-on experience in cultivation, processing, and post-harvest management of cannabis at commercial scale. He started BudTrainer to bring that same level of craft to home growers through better-designed gardening tools and clear, science-backed education.
DISCLAIMER: Everything taught and sold by BudTrainer® is to be used strictly for legal purposes. We do not endorse the production of illegal substances and it is your duty to ensure that you are complying with the law. The words "hemp," "cannabis," "weed," and "marijuana" are used interchangeably to refer to the same plant (legal hemp with less than 0.3% THC) for the purposes of this lesson.
