DISCLAIMER: Everything taught and sold by BudTrainer is to be used strictly for legal purposes. We condemn the production of illegal substances and it is your duty to ensure that you are complying with the law. The words "hemp", "cannabis", "weed", and "marijuana" are used interchangeably to refer to the same plant (legal hemp with less than 0.3% THC) for the purposes of this lesson.
There are several ways to train cannabis plants, and the right approach depends on whether you have topped your plant. The BudTrainer Method is built for growers who have already topped their plant above the 5th node - this gives you 4 nodes and 8 evenly matched growth sites to spread and manage throughout the vegetative stage. If you have not topped your plant and prefer to keep it intact, follow our LST Method instead, which trains the main stalk sideways without any cutting. If you are brand new to growing, start with Cannabis Home-Growing Basics first.
The BudTrainer Method uses topping and low-stress training together: topping breaks apical dominance and multiplies growth sites, while the training spreads and organizes those branches to maximize their light exposure and airflow. Used together, the two techniques produce significantly more yield than either approach alone. To understand the science behind how canopy development drives yield, read our article on Cannabis Canopy Development Science.
This guide covers all 3 stages of the BudTrainer Method - from the first training session after topping through bud support in flower - including the branch squeeze technique for stiff stems, what to do when a branch breaks, and how to adjust for indicas vs sativas or indoor vs outdoor grows. For a comparison of all cannabis training methods and which one is right for your setup, see the section below.
Why Train Cannabis Plants?
Cannabis naturally grows in a "Christmas tree" shape - one dominant cola at the top, with smaller and smaller bud sites below. This shape is optimized for sunlight, which arrives from above and moves across the sky. Grow lights do not move. They sit in a fixed position, which means the top of the plant is always in the best light while everything below it gradually falls into weaker, less productive zones.
The physics behind this is called the inverse square law: indoor grow lights lose 5-10x intensity for every foot of distance from the source. A bud site that is 12 inches below your canopy receives a fraction of the light the top does - and the result is small, loose, underdeveloped buds that waste the plant's energy. Training solves this by collapsing the vertical dimension of your plant and bringing every bud site to the same height, all at the same distance from the light.
The yield impact is measurable. Trained plants consistently produce 20-40% more than untrained plants under identical conditions - the same light, the same pot, the same genetics - simply because more of the plant's energy is going into productive bud sites rather than a single dominant top. Beyond yield, training also improves airflow through the canopy, which reduces humidity buildup and mold risk, and gives you better visibility into the plant for watering, feeding, and pest checks.
For outdoor growers the logic is slightly different - sunlight is available from multiple angles and is far more powerful than any grow light - but training still matters. A wide, flat canopy catches more direct light during the peak hours of the day, and a well-supported plant is far less likely to snap branches or tip over under strong wind and the weight of heavy late-flower buds. Training is also how outdoor growers build the massive canopy footprints that produce the largest harvests. See our guide on how to grow massive cannabis plants outdoors for the full outdoor approach.
Tools and Materials
- LST clips
- Fabric pot with grommets
- Garden wire
- Trimming scissors
When To Train Cannabis
The BudTrainer Method has 3 stages of training. The short answer on when to start Stage 1 is: 1 to 2 weeks after topping, when the top growth sites have grown to about 2 inches long. The clock on this starts from germination - if you are still at the seedling stage, starter cups give seedlings the right environment before their first transplant into a fabric pot.
Please note: in order for the BudTrainer Method to work, you must top your plants first - above the 5th node, removing the 1st node, and leaving behind a total of 4 nodes and 8 growth sites. If you are not topping your plants, follow BudTrainer's LST Method instead.
3 Stages of Cannabis Plant Training
The BudTrainer Method has three stages. The first two focus on shaping your plant to maximize light exposure and airflow, which drives faster growth and larger branches. The third stage gives your buds the structural support they need to grow into large, dense colas without falling over under their own weight. To learn more about the science of how your canopy develops across all three stages, read our article on Canopy Development Science.
How to Train Cannabis Plants | Stage 1
The first stage of cannabis plant training is meant to transform the small growth sites on your main stalk into thick branches that grow sideways, increasing your plant's canopy area and light exposure. The best time to do this is when the top growth sites are around 2 inches long.
Step 1. Training the 1st Node (Top Node)
With your first LST clip, attach one pin to the main stalk just below the 5th (top) node. Gently bend the top branch past the other pin to test its flexibility. To learn how to use LST clips in depth, read our article How to Use the BudClips.
Please note: if you do not have LST clips, you can accomplish a very similar result by using only garden wire and attaching it directly to your fabric pot grommets.
If the branch is flexible enough to reach the second pin of the clip, go ahead and attach it under the second pin as shown below.
The Branch Squeeze Technique
However, if you feel like your branch is going to break, stop and do a "branch squeeze" first: gently squeeze the branch with your thumb and index finger at the point where the curve will be sharpest. By compressing these fibers, you prevent the branch from snapping when you bend it. Do not worry if you squeeze it flat - it will form a knuckle and become stronger and thicker at that point over the following week.
Please note: the plant in this example did not need the branch squeeze, but it was demonstrated here to help you understand the technique. When in doubt, a squeeze is always better than a break.
Once the branch is soft from the squeeze, train it under the second pin of the LST clip.
Once you finish with the first clip, do the exact same thing to the other branch from the same node. To attach a second clip to the main stalk, interlock it with the first clip as shown below. Without this interlocking ability, the clips would bump into each other and you would only be able to train one side. To learn how the BudClips compare to other training clips on the market, read our article Comparison: BudClips Vs Other LST Clips.
After one week, the top branches will look wide and strong - ready to support multiple heavy buds. The area where the squeeze happened will have formed a knuckle that is thicker and stronger than the rest of the branch.
Branches Too Hard to Bend?
If your main stalk is already too thick to fit the LST clips, or too hard to do the branch squeeze, attach your clips higher up on the branches - above the main stalk junction - rather than interlocking them at the stalk itself.
Here is what your plant will look like 1 week after being trained this way - branches will thicken in place and form a strong manifold structure ready to hold your big buds.
Step 2. Training the 4th Node (2nd From Top)
Once you are finished with the top (5th) node, train the 4th node the same way - either by interlocking clips on the main stalk, or by placing them higher up on the branches where they are still pliable. The 4th node is usually stiffer than the top node, so starting higher up on the branch is common here.
Please note: if you do not have LST clips, you can accomplish the same result by using garden wire attached to your fabric pot grommets, which is what you will do in Step 3 for the lower nodes.
How to Fix a Broken Branch
Breaking a branch during training is a normal part of growing - it happens to experienced growers too. A broken branch will not significantly impact your yield. Cannabis plants have very fast metabolisms and will redirect energy to the remaining branches, continuing to produce plenty of buds. Here is a full guide on how to fix a broken branch.
To fix a broken branch, wrap some plant tape around the broken area, connecting both ends and making sure both sides of the broken tissue are touching. If the branch is heavy, add extra rounds of tape for support - but do not wrap so tightly that you squeeze the branch.
NOTE: If your branch came off completely and is now in 2 pieces, unfortunately it cannot be fixed. Just make sure to leave the remaining branch exposed to as much light as possible.
1 week later, your plant will be fully healed and you can remove the tape to allow the branch to continue growing.
Step 3. Training the Remaining Nodes
Now that your top 2 nodes are trained, it is time to handle the bottom 2 nodes. There are 2 scenarios you may encounter here. The first is where your bottom branches are long and have grown up to or near the canopy. The second is where your bottom branches are still short, staying low and in the center of the plant.
As shown below, it is common for bottom branches to grow tall and off to the sides at roughly a 45-degree angle. If this is the case with your plant, it means you are doing well - time to train them.
Cut a 4 to 6 inch piece of garden wire and attach the first end to the grommet closest to the branch, securing it by squeezing it around the fabric pot.
Pull the branch down to your desired height and measure where you want to bend the garden wire. If there are large leaves in the way, you can also pull the branch sideways to an adjacent grommet - this trains it down and to the side at the same time.
Please note: make sure to position the bottom branches at a similar height to the top branches - otherwise they will get less light exposure and become dwarfed.
Loop the garden wire around your finger to create a large hook for the branch.
Release the branch in place and adjust as needed. Make sure to create a loop at least twice as large as the branch diameter - otherwise it can get strangled as the branch grows thicker. Repeat this process with the remaining branches until all 8 branches are trained on the fabric pot grommets.
When arranging your branches, organize them as symmetrically as possible - pulling opposite branches from the same node 180 degrees apart and leaving even space between all 8 branches.
Please note: if you do not have garden wire and a fabric pot, you can accomplish the same technique using LST clips directly on the branch tip, making sure to use them on the soft part rather than the woody base.
How to Train Cannabis Plants | Stage 2
The second stage of plant training organizes your grown branches to maximize bud exposure to light and airflow, and increases canopy consistency. It has 3 steps: a light defoliation, a second topping, and re-training your branches further outward.
Stage 2 can be repeated every 1 to 2 weeks from the previous session, as long as your plant is still in the vegetative stage. This works especially well for outdoor grows, where you have several months of veg growth and branches spread in every direction. Consistent weekly training produces a more even canopy and multiple buds of similar size rather than a few large ones surrounded by small ones. Many growers use this technique specifically to grow massive cannabis plants outdoors.
Step 1. Initial Defoliation
At this point your plant will be in weeks 5 to 8 of the vegetative stage, and some of its leaves will be older than 30 days. Leaves at this age start consuming nearly as much energy as they produce - and the older they get, the more they drain. Our guide How to Defoliate Cannabis covers this topic in more detail, but follow the steps below for now.
Please note: if your plant is suffering from nutrient deficiencies, do not defoliate - skip this step instead.
Removing Main Stalk Leaves
The main stalk leaves are the oldest leaves on your plant. Even though they may look large and healthy, remove them so your plant can redirect that energy to younger leaves. After removing these large old leaves, the remaining ones will often become twice as large within 1 to 2 days.
To remove a leaf, grab it by the petiole (the small stem connecting it to the main stalk) and pull it downward until you feel a crack - this means it is broken. Then pull the leaf away until it fully detaches. You can do this to all 8 leaves on the first 4 nodes.
Removing Shaded Leaves and Branches
Any leaf or branch sitting in the shade is draining energy from your plant - like a solar panel installed under a roof instead of on top of it. These are not doing anything useful now, and they will not catch up later.
Not only are they already small, but they will continue to stay small - sapping energy away from the branches that matter. If you allow those small branches into the flowering cycle, they will become small, larfy popcorn buds.
Step 2. Topping Again (Not For Autoflowers)
Please note: skip to Step 3 if you are growing autoflowers, as it is not recommended to top them twice. At this stage, autoflowers will already be well into the flowering stage.
If you are not yet familiar with the topping technique, head over to our lesson on How to Top Cannabis Plants before continuing.
This is where you top your plant for the 2nd time. When topping for the second time, only top the 4 top branches - not the 4 bottom branches, which already have to work harder to reach the top of the canopy. By topping only the top nodes, the lower ones can catch up. To top again, cut the top 1 inch from each of the 4 top branches, leaving behind 2 to 3 nodes on each (4 to 6 new growth sites per branch).
Can I Top More Than Twice?
Yes - while not recommended for indoor grows unless you have more than 15 sq ft per plant, outdoor growers can top a 3rd or 4th time after 1 to 2 weeks from the previous topping. This further multiplies your plant's growth sites and canopy spread. The plants below were topped a total of 4 times using the mainline training method.
Prune Dwarfed Branches Before Topping Again
Before your second or third topping, remove any growth sites where a node has one large and one small growth site side by side. By removing the smaller one (indicated by the white arrow below), you focus your plant's energy on the dominant growth site rather than wasting it on a branch that will never reach the canopy.
Step 3. Training Branches
Once your plant is clear of old and shaded leaves and small branches, re-train your existing branches further outward and train any new ones that have grown off them since Stage 1. Use both LST clips and the garden wire plus fabric pot grommet combination depending on branch position and size.
Top 2 Nodes
Since you used LST clips on the top 2 nodes during Stage 1, move them further up the branch to continue training it sideways. It is important to remove clips from previous positions once branches become thicker - otherwise they will start squeezing the stem.
Please note: if you are using garden wire to tie the top branches to the fabric pot, simply reattach it further up each branch to continue training it sideways.
After finishing the top 2 branches, repeat the same process with the 2 branches below them. In total, all 4 sets of clips will have moved higher up their respective branches.
Extra Branches
At this stage, your plant may already have new growth sites coming off the main branches that are 2 to 3 inches long and ready to train. If so, simply attach LST clips to these new branches in a way that provides maximum light exposure and air circulation.
Bottom 2 Nodes
During Stage 1 you used garden wire to train your bottom 2 nodes. Now remove those wires from their current position and move them higher up each branch, pulling it down and out even further. This gains a few extra square inches of canopy spread.
Please note: if the bottom branches are already below the canopy line, do not pull them further down. Instead, train them sideways - left or right - so they move out of the shade and into direct light.
You Are Off To Growing Massive Branches
Now that Stages 1 and 2 are complete, your plant is ready for the flowering stage. All branches will continue to grow and thicken from this point, making way for the largest buds you have ever grown. After Stage 2 is complete, wait 3 days for your plant to fully recover, then switch it to the flowering stage with a 12h ON / 12h OFF light cycle. You can start Stage 3 of training as soon as the 3rd week of flowering is complete.
How to Train Cannabis Plants | Stage 3
Please note: Stage 3 is to be performed right after the mid-flower defoliation (lollipopping) between day 21 and 25 of flower. To learn how to defoliate at this stage, head over to How to Defoliate Cannabis and then come back here.
The 3rd stage of plant training is about supporting your buds so they do not fall over when they get heavy - and to make your eventual harvest and trim easier. It starts as soon as the 3rd week of flowering ends (days 21 to 25 into the flowering cycle), which is when your plant stops stretching and starts bulking up, becoming top-heavy. You have two options for support.
1. Garden Ties
The quickest and simplest way to support your buds is by tying them to one another with garden wire, allowing opposite branches to support each other. Choose branches that are 180 degrees apart and tie them together - do not pull them toward each other, simply leave them where they naturally sit.
You can also tie all branches together in a large loop, like a tomato cage. Cut a long piece of garden wire, create a large hoop around your plant, and tie it to 3 or 4 branches so it cannot move down. This allows your buds to thicken without pulling the branches downward.
After tying the top branches to one another, also support your main stalk. If the stalk is unsupported, the entire plant can flop to one side, making it very difficult to manage. Tie garden wire as "guy wires" to your main stalk and tighten them around the fabric pot. At this stage the stalk is thick enough that it cannot be strangled by wire.
2. Trellis Netting
A trellis net provides stronger support but requires a fixed structure - the corner poles of a grow tent, or a wood or PVC frame outdoors. Once the net is in place you will not be able to move your plants until harvest. We recommend trellis netting with 3-inch holes, which supports roughly one large cola per hole.
Unlike garden ties (which you start using around week 3 of flower), you can install a trellis net at the very start of the flowering cycle. To use it, "tuck" each branch under the next net line as it grows 3 to 4 inches above the net - this bends it horizontal and widens your canopy. Once your plant stops stretching at the end of week 3, stop tucking and let the branches grow freely. At that point the net shifts from holding branches down to holding your heavy colas up.
You Are Off To Growing Massive Buds
This is an exciting part of the growth cycle - it means you have done most of the preparation work and can now enjoy the results. Once cannabis plants mature toward the end of the flowering cycle, buds will start showing trichomes and releasing the pleasant aromas that their terpenes produce. All you have to do now is continue watering and fertilizing while watching your harvest build. When the time comes, our guides on harvesting, the 60/60 drying method, and trimming and curing will walk you through the final steps.
Cannabis Training Methods Compared
There is no single "best" way to train cannabis. The right method depends on whether you have topped your plant, how much veg time you have, whether you are growing indoors or outdoors, and whether your plant is a photoperiod or an autoflower. All training methods fall into two broad categories: low-stress training (LST), which bends and repositions branches without any cutting, and high-stress training (HST), which involves cutting or deliberately damaging plant tissue to force a new growth pattern.
Both types work by breaking apical dominance - the plant's tendency to concentrate growth hormones in a single dominant top. When you eliminate that dominant top, those hormones redistribute to every lateral branch simultaneously, and all of them surge upward to become colas. The result is a flat, even canopy where every bud site sits at the same height and receives the same intensity of light.
Low-Stress Training (LST)
LST bends and repositions branches using clips and wire - no cutting involved. The plant never stops growing, requires no recovery time, and can be trained continuously throughout veg. It is the safest method for autoflowers and for growers who want to minimize risk. The trade-off is that it requires more frequent adjustments, and without topping, it produces fewer total growth sites than the combined methods. LST is also the foundation of Stage 1 and Stage 2 of the BudTrainer Method - the clips and wire work is the LST component. Tools needed: LST clips, garden wire, fabric pot with grommets.
Topping
Topping cuts the main growing tip, splitting one cola into two. Each subsequent topping doubles the growth sites again - 1 becomes 2, 2 becomes 4, 4 becomes 8. Each cut requires a 5-7 day recovery period before growth fully resumes, so timing matters: topping too close to the flip date wastes that recovery window. Topping is a high-stress technique classified as HST and is not recommended for autoflowers. For the complete guide, see How to Top Cannabis Plants.
The BudTrainer Method (Topping + LST)
The BudTrainer Method combines topping with low-stress training - which is what this article teaches. You top above node 5 first (removing node 1, leaving 4 nodes and 8 growth sites), then use LST clips and garden wire to spread and manage those branches throughout veg, topping the top 4 branches again during Stage 2. The result is a wide, flat canopy with a structured, repeatable layout and a high number of uniform bud sites. It is more involved than pure LST but more accessible than mainlining, and it requires less space and fewer plants than a full ScrOG setup. It is designed for photoperiod plants; autoflowers should use the LST Method.
Mainlining
Mainlining is topping taken to a systematic extreme. The plant is topped down to a single node, then that node is trained flat, then topped again - creating a perfectly symmetrical "manifold" structure with an even number of main colas (typically 8 or 16). Every cola receives identical nutrient flow and light, producing very uniform bud size across the whole plant. The trade-off is that mainlining adds 2-3 weeks to your vegetative stage and demands precision at each step. It is best suited for experienced growers with ample veg time. See the full guide on How to Mainline Cannabis.
ScrOG (Screen of Green)
ScrOG uses a horizontal trellis net stretched above the plant. As branches grow through the net holes, they are tucked sideways, filling the screen evenly with bud sites at the same height. Once the screen is full and the plant enters flower, the net shifts from a training tool to a bud support structure - exactly as described in Stage 3 of this guide. ScrOG works with both LST and topped plants and is particularly effective for maximizing a single plant under a fixed indoor light footprint. The main limitation is that once the net is installed, you cannot move the plant until harvest.
Defoliation
Defoliation does not shape the structure of your plant - it manages energy. Removing old fan leaves, shaded leaves, and excess growth redirects the plant's resources to productive bud sites and improves airflow through the canopy. Used at the right moments (veg weeks 5-8, and again at days 21-25 of flower), it amplifies the results of every other training method. Used too aggressively or at the wrong time, it slows growth and causes stress. See the full guide on How to Defoliate Cannabis.
FIMing
FIMing (the name comes from "F*ck, I Missed") is a variation of topping where only about 75% of the growing tip is removed rather than the whole thing. The result is typically 3-4 new growth sites instead of 2, but the growth is less symmetrical and harder to manage than a clean top. FIMing causes slightly less stress than topping and allows a marginally faster recovery, but the uneven canopy it creates often requires more corrective LST work afterward. For most growers, a clean top followed by LST produces a more controllable result.
Super Cropping
Super cropping deliberately crushes the inner tissue of a branch at the point of a bend. The crushed spot heals into a dense knuckle that increases nutrient and water flow through that branch, producing stronger stems and potentially larger buds above the knuckle. It is classified as high-stress training and is best performed by experienced growers in the last 1-2 weeks of veg or the early stretch phase of flower. The branch squeeze technique used in Stage 1 of the BudTrainer Method is a lighter application of the same principle - softening the fibers before a training bend rather than fully crushing them.
Which Method Should You Use?
- Autoflower, first grow, or no topping: LST Method
- Photoperiod, have topped, want a structured repeatable method: BudTrainer Method (this guide)
- Experienced grower, want maximum cola uniformity: Mainlining
- Maximizing one plant under a fixed indoor light footprint: ScrOG (covered in Stage 3 above)
- Outdoor grower wanting the largest possible canopy: BudTrainer Method + repeated Stage 2 toppings; see also growing massive cannabis plants outdoors
- All methods benefit from: Defoliation at the right timing - and from proper harvesting and trimming at the end
Frequently Asked Questions
When should I start training my cannabis plant?
Start Stage 1 training 1 to 2 weeks after topping, when the top growth sites have reached about 2 inches long. Starting too early leaves too little branch length to work with; starting too late means branches have lignified and will be harder to bend. This typically occurs around week 4 to 6 from germination, depending on the strain and growing conditions. If you are still at the seedling stage, read our guides on selecting seeds, germinating, and planting first.
What is the difference between the BudTrainer Method and LST?
The BudTrainer Method combines topping with low-stress training - you top above node 5 first (removing node 1, leaving 4 nodes and 8 growth sites), then spread and manage those branches with LST clips and garden wire through the vegetative stage. The LST Method skips topping entirely and instead bends the intact main stalk sideways from node 5 without any cutting. The BudTrainer Method creates more growth sites and a more structured canopy but requires recovery time after each topping; LST works without any cuts, making it the better choice for autoflowers and newer growers.
What is the difference between LST and HST?
LST (low-stress training) bends and repositions branches without cutting or damaging plant tissue. The plant experiences minimal disruption and keeps growing throughout. HST (high-stress training) involves cutting or deliberately damaging the plant - topping, FIMing, mainlining, and super cropping are all HST techniques. HST forces a recovery period of several days to a week, but can push yield potential beyond what LST alone achieves. The BudTrainer Method is a combination of both: the topping steps are HST; the clip and wire work is LST. For autoflowers, stick to LST only.
How many times should I top my cannabis plant?
The BudTrainer Method calls for at least 2 toppings. The first happens before Stage 1, above node 5. The second happens during Stage 2, where only the 4 top branches are topped - cutting the top 1 inch from each and leaving 2 to 3 nodes per branch. For indoor grows, 2 toppings is typically the limit unless you have more than 15 sq ft per plant. For outdoor grows with a long vegetative season, a 3rd or 4th topping every 1 to 2 weeks can build a very large canopy.
Can I use this training method on autoflowers?
The BudTrainer Method is designed for photoperiod plants. Autoflowers transition to flower on their own schedule (typically around week 4 to 5), and the recovery time required after two rounds of topping eats significantly into that window. For autoflowers, follow the LST Method instead, which provides similar yield benefits without requiring the plant to pause and recover from cuts.
What is the branch squeeze technique and when should I use it?
The branch squeeze is a technique for making a stiff branch pliable before bending it. Gently squeeze the branch between your thumb and index finger at the exact point where it will be bent most sharply. This compresses the internal fibers and prevents the branch from snapping under the bend. If the branch flattens slightly under the squeeze, that is fine - a knuckle will form at that spot within a week and the branch will end up stronger and thicker than it was before. Use the branch squeeze any time a branch feels too rigid to bend without risk of breaking.
What is the difference between training cannabis indoors vs outdoors?
Outdoors, cannabis flowers automatically after late July or August (Northern Hemisphere), giving you as many rounds of Stage 2 training as your vegetative season allows. Indoors, it is not recommended to veg for longer than 7 to 8 weeks, which typically means only one round of Stage 2 before flipping to flower. Outdoor plants also need more frequent defoliation - at least once a month - to prevent pest-friendly pockets of clustered foliage, while indoor plants generally only need a few targeted leaves removed. Outdoor plants in late flower also need extra structural support against strong winds, which garden ties, trellis nets, garden stakes, and ropes can all provide.
What is the difference between training indicas and sativas?
Indicas are shorter and stockier with tight internodal spacing, which makes them easier to train, requires more defoliation, and typically only needs one topping. They need to be trained less frequently and stay lower profile. Sativas are taller and lanky with longer internodal spacing, which makes them harder to manage and means they need more frequent training sessions and multiple toppings to stay compact. For sativas, top once every 2 weeks until it is time to switch to flower - this prevents them from growing too tall indoors and becoming prone to wind-snap outdoors.
